I''d love to have a Snap-On micrometer adjust click torque wrench in this size class, but those are nearly $400. A whiz-bang electronic Snap-On is over $600. For someone who doesn''t wrench for a living 8-10 hours every day, and needs a 25-250 ft-lb 1/2" drive torque...
I''d love to have a Snap-On micrometer adjust click torque wrench in this size class, but those are nearly $400. A whiz-bang electronic Snap-On is over $600. For someone who doesn''t wrench for a living 8-10 hours every day, and needs a 25-250 ft-lb 1/2" drive torque wrench maybe once a year or so for a more involved and heavier automotive maintenance task, that''s simply not cost effective. Nor is an S-K, Matpro, MAC, CDI, Proto, or any of the other high end tools in the $250-$350 price class. The Tekton is not a mechanical work of art to be marveled over. It''s a torque wrench which should be used, but not misused or abused either. Even at the lowest setting (25 ft-lb), the click is distinctly felt without ambiguity.
I''ve seen confusion occasionally from those who haven''t used a click type torque wrench before and haven''t been taught how to use one properly. First, it''s *not* a breaker bar. It''s not made for general purpose fastener removal use. The "reverse" is intended primarily to back off a fastener that''s being torqued, to torque it again if there''s a question that it was torqued properly or not. If you need a breaker bar, get a breaker bar. Using a torque wrench as a breaker bar can very easily damage it. Neither should a "cheater" ever be used - typically a pipe - to increase the length of the wrench as many will do with a breaker bar (at their peril if the breaker bar or fastener fails). It can and will damage the micrometer adjustment handle. As with any torque wrench regardless of type, once the fastener begins to tighten, one should firmly, but s-l-o-w-l-y turn the wrench by its **handle**. Always turn the wrench by the middle of the handle. Choking up on it or using a cheater pipe (aside from the damage it causes) will change the actual torque achieved, and often not by just a little. May seem counter-intuitive, but I''ve seen this demonstrated dramatically and quite conclusively in a torque calibration lab. The click is intended to be felt by the hand turning the wrench at the handle. It does *not* release the the wrench to turn freely. If one keeps turning the wrench, the fastener will be over-torqued. It may also make audible "click" that''s heard if the shop is quiet, but that''s not the intent of its design. It''s intended to be felt. Never had a problem feeling the click on every torque wrench of this type that I''ve used, and it''s been more than a few over the decades in other folks'' garages and workshops. The secret is turning slowly and smoothly as the fastener tightens. Rush the task like it''s a race track pit crew contest and you''ll start snapping bolts and studs; you''ll miss feeling the "click". The wrench should be stored at its lowest torque setting (*not* zero) and that''s marked on this wrench as it is with every other micrometer adjusted torque wrench I''ve used. In addition, the micrometer adjustment should not be turned more than two or three foot-pounds past the lowest setting. Going past it slightly won''t hurt the wrench, but go too far and it will come apart, or parts will slip out of position internally. Recovering from that without an exploded parts diagram and assembly sequence instructions is very difficult at best. Curiosity about its handle internals can kill the wrench. At the least it will completely ruin its calibration, even if it appears to work afterward.
For those inclined to do so, the head can be disassembled to clean and lubricate the gear and pawl mechanism. It''s simple and straightforward, with two Torx screws. The mechanism is based on the original Snap-On teardrop reversing ratchet design from eons ago. Be forewarned, there are two small coil springs that push the pawls into the main gear teeth on the bit. They can spring out if you''re not careful during disassembly or reassembly. Don''t lose them! I use very light machine oil versus grease. Do this maintenance at your own risk! Cleaning and lubing the head ratcheting mechanism doesn''t affect the torque setting micrometer or the wrench''s calibration as that''s an entirely different mechanism inside the handle.
Does the job and does it well if used and cared for properly.
Even though there''s a reversing switch, it will NOT measure torque on left-hand (CCW) thread fasteners, only on right-hand (CW) thread fasteners, which comprise nearly all fasteners made now, with some rare exceptions in very special applications. A few very old automobiles have left-hand lug bolts on one side. (Current example: bicycle pedals are CW on one side and CCW on the other to keep the CCW side from working itself loose and spinning itself off the crank.) If you need to deal with torque specs on left-hand threaded fasteners, there are some torque wrenches that will measure torque in either direction. Be prepared to pay some $$$ for them.